The Gardian’s Cabin
This is a typical 19th-century dwelling in the Camargue, used to house agricultural workers. These huts are similar to those found along the Languedoc and Roussillon coastline. Camargue huts are made from locally available plant materials, such as reeds (sagne), as these materials are inexpensive and high-quality materials are reserved for farmhouses and the residences of livestock farmers. The huts also served as accommodation for fishermen, shepherds, basket makers, and salt workers.
The long side of the hut faces north so that it offers no resistance to the wind, particularly the mistral. The huts have no foundations and their floors are made of beaten earth. The low whitewashed walls feature a few narrow openings to protect the inhabitants from the sun. The steep slope of the double-pitched reed roof allows rainwater to drain away easily. There is no chimney, just a central hearth without a hood. A simple hole in the roof allows smoke to escape.
Old huts are no longer visible; only modernised replicas remain, serving as lodgings, guest rooms or restaurants for tourists and holidaymakers. The architecture is still appreciated for its traditional style and for how it has adapted to the harsh climatic conditions of the Camargue.
Bullfighting traditions
Bullfighting is a striking aspect of regional culture.
A typical example from the south is the Camargue race, a bullfighting game without killing that takes place in arenas. The raseteur, who is dressed entirely in white, aims to catch the attributes attached to the bull's head with his bare hands. There are three attributes and they must be caught in the following order: the cocarde (a red ribbon attached between the horns), the tassels (white wool pom-poms attached to the base of each horn) and finally the strings that surround the base of the horns. Raseteurs use a four-pronged hook, which is sometimes attached to their wrist. Once caught, the bull chases the raseteur around the arena, charging at the barriers and even attempting to jump over them to the crowd's delight. The race is run without harming the animal. Camargue bull-running celebrates the courage of the bulls and the agility of the raseteurs. The Camargue bull, or 'cocardier', is smarter, more nervous and faster than its Spanish cousin, the fighting bull. The cocardier becomes more involved in the game with each race. This makes it more difficult to rasete. Some even become real local stars. When they die, tradition dictates that they should be buried standing up with their heads turned towards the sea.
The abrivado is an ancient practice involving driving bulls from pastures to arenas, where they would participate in races. An escort of horsemen accompanied the bulls — known as biou in Provençal — to ensure their safety. Over time, the herdsmen began crossing the village streets at high speed to stop the young villagers disturbing the procession. The young villagers would play with the bulls, which often escaped from the herd. Nowadays, abrivados are organised for festivals and form part of the local folklore.
The Bandido marks the end of the show and is the reverse journey, the return to the cart.
The word 'encierro' is of Spanish origin and translates as 'to enclose'. It refers to the confinement of the bulls in corrals (usually courtyards adjacent to the bullring), where they are kept until the day of the bullfight. In southern France, encierros involve releasing bulls onto an enclosed course within the village — a street closed at both ends by carts and barriers — or a public square with access points closed in the same way.
The pilgrimage
The great gypsy pilgrimage has taken place at Saintes-Maries-de-la-Mer every year since the Middle Ages. The pilgrimage's history is closely linked to that of the town itself, which is renowned for its tradition of welcoming gypsies. According to legend, the three Marys (Mary Jacobé, Mary Salomé, and Mary Magdalene) were exiled from Palestine and placed in a boat without sails or oars. Driven by the currents, they eventually washed up on the shores of the Rhône Delta in 48 AD, at the site of the present-day town. There, they were welcomed by Sara the Black, who was camping with her tribe on the banks of the Rhône. Some stories say that Sara was the Egyptian servant of the three Marys and that she was on the boat with them. Following their deaths, a cult developed, as evidenced by the construction of the fortress church in the 12th century. Saint Sara became the patron saint of the Gypsies, who have worshipped her for many years.
The pilgrimage is both a Christian event and an exceptional tourist attraction. Gypsies come from all over Europe for this sacred gathering. The crowds flood the village and carry the saints' relics to the sea for a blessing to purify them. Saint Sara's immersion takes place one day before the others and involves immersing her statue up to the waist. This ritual is characteristic of Provençal civilisation and its fear of the Mediterranean Sea. The pilgrimage offers a real spectacle in the town, providing an opportunity to enjoy flamenco guitarists, gypsy dancers and palm readers. You can also admire the traditional Camargue costumes worn by the Arlésiennes and gardians.
The Camargue cross
Created in 1924, the Camargue cross embodies the spirit and values of the region. It symbolises the 'Camargue nation' by representing the gardians, fishermen, and Saintes Maries.
It is composed of three elements representing:
- Faith: the tridents of the gardians
- Hope, represented by the anchor of the fishermen
- Charity, represented by the heart of the Saintes Maries
The costume
The men's costume was traditionally worn by farmers and craftsmen. It originated from a city costume. It is notable for having fallen out of fashion over time, as this type of costume was long ago abandoned by the urban bourgeoisie. It consists of French-style breeches with stockings or gaiters, a waistcoat, and a jacket. The taillolle, a red wool belt worn around the waist, is the only element that has endured over time.
The traditional costume of the gardians was established in the 1920s. For horse riding, the gardian wears taupe-coloured trousers and a colourful shirt. For special occasions, he wears a black velvet jacket, tie and wide-brimmed hat.
The women's costume known as the 'Arlésienne' dates back to the Louis XV period. Worn by women of all social classes throughout Provence, it is directly inspired by the costume of the Camargue. Young girls wear the Mireille costume, consisting of a skirt and simple bodice. From the age of 16, they can finally wear the authentic Arlésienne costume. The special headdress requires long hair. Depending on the day of the week and the tasks to be performed, it can be pulled up onto the top of the head and held in place by a ribbon, tie or lace bow. The costume consists of a chapel (a trapezoidal piece of lace covering the chest), a large square shawl, and a long, colourful, satin dress with a pinched waist. Arlésiennes embellish their costumes with various accessories, such as silver necklaces, Provençal gold crosses, solid gold bracelets adorned with diamonds, and rings set with precious stones. Only married women may wear earrings. These gold items are all passed down from generation to generation.
